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Improve the passive cooling (DIY)
Watherson
New Member Posts: 5 ✭
[Photos are fiexed]
Hey guys,
I just recently thought about how to improve the cooling of the up square while it hits up to 90-100 degrees Celsius under intensive work loads (though it uses quite good thermal pad from fujipoly). I don’t want to use an active cooling since I have the board running 24h 365d in my bedroom.
I thought why don’t I just use a good thermal paste or whatever instead of the thermal pad. And then I got the idea! Use a piece of copper shim, past it on the cooler with a good thermal past then we can use put the whole thing directly on the board (of course some thermal paste between the die and cooler’s copper shim).
Let me show you guys what I have done:
I took all thermal pads, cleaned up with iso propanol and replaced them with my own and pasted the piece of copper with a thickness of 0.6mm (which is the perfect thickness) on the cooler.
While I wanted to use liquid metal (from thermal grizzly) to have an even better result, I covered ervery parts on the cpu which have something on them except the die with insulation tape to ensure no shorts happen. And then firmly spread the liquid metal with a cotton stick.
The result:
Quite cool under 5 minuets full load.B)
So, I want to share this with all who are not satisfied with the temperature of the board.
Cheers
Yu
Hey guys,
I just recently thought about how to improve the cooling of the up square while it hits up to 90-100 degrees Celsius under intensive work loads (though it uses quite good thermal pad from fujipoly). I don’t want to use an active cooling since I have the board running 24h 365d in my bedroom.
I thought why don’t I just use a good thermal paste or whatever instead of the thermal pad. And then I got the idea! Use a piece of copper shim, past it on the cooler with a good thermal past then we can use put the whole thing directly on the board (of course some thermal paste between the die and cooler’s copper shim).
Let me show you guys what I have done:
I took all thermal pads, cleaned up with iso propanol and replaced them with my own and pasted the piece of copper with a thickness of 0.6mm (which is the perfect thickness) on the cooler.
While I wanted to use liquid metal (from thermal grizzly) to have an even better result, I covered ervery parts on the cpu which have something on them except the die with insulation tape to ensure no shorts happen. And then firmly spread the liquid metal with a cotton stick.
The result:
Quite cool under 5 minuets full load.B)
So, I want to share this with all who are not satisfied with the temperature of the board.
Cheers
Yu
Comments
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Some of the photos appear to be corrupted unfortunately.
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Yeah, it happens all the time on these forums. It's not the uploader's fault or the viewer's fault, it's the forum-software that for one or another reason corrupts uploaded pictures. I have complained about it, but it seems no one cares enough to fix it.
Too bad, though. I would have liked to see OP's project. -
Hi, We tested thermal pad & thermal paste solution. We go for the thermal pad in the end. Thanks for your DYI suggestion for other maker.
We also understand the forum SW is not stable enough, and we are working on a migration to a new software platform, so we will launch a survey to know what functionalities should be added. :-) -
@Watherson I'm getting high 80s (ºC) when the UP Squared is under load. It looks like you're getting high 30s (ºC) in your screenshot... Is this correct? Holy Cow! I need to get a copper shim and some decent thermal paste under the hood!
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with the passive chassis (which is awesome) i get 34c idle temps and 80c full load synthetic stress test at 25c ambient.
that's completely expected temps. Well within tolerance for passive cooling and since that's a level of load this will never see (which is why i went passive anyway), i'm not worried with my setup.
as a firewall this will probably never see higher cpu usage than what you get with apt-get dist upgrades.
